As blue as Marseille

As with many a port cities, Marseille’s demography has been shaped by its port. Today, its populace is a healthy mixture of the neighbouring Corsicans, Italians, Armenians, the Algerians and many others. In short, it combines big-city swagger and fishing-village sociability.

What strikes immediately as you descend up on Marseille is how blue everything looks. The clearest skies are outlined by monochromatic land that instantly gives way to another shade of the deepest blue in the shape of the Mediterranean Sea. And then as you walk alongside the Old Port of Marseille, you realise that this was the setting that Ludlum chose to introduce his hero Jason Bourne who was found floating unconscious in the Mediterranean Sea near Marseille, located in southern France.

Life revolves around water

The present port city is nothing like that it used to be in the early 1900’s. Historically, the economy of Marseille was dominated by its role as a port of the French Empire. A major portion of the port and docks have now been redeveloped and house restaurants and bars. Having said that, the city’s economy is still linked to its commercial port. Cruise liners can be seen docking at the terminal with regular frequency to and from Algeria, Corsica, Sardinia, and Tunisia, making it even more busy in tourist season. And since Marseille is part of the French Riviera resort coastline area, the port is also a departure point for Rhone River cruises to Provence and Burgundy – France’s main wine regions.

Fishing obviously is an important part of Marseille life and the food economy of Marseille is fed by the local catch. At its heart is the Vieux-Port (Old Port), where fishmongers sell their catch along the boat-lined quay. It comes as no surprise then that Marseille’s most famous dish is a seafood dish called bouillabaisse!

Sites and sounds!

It will be blasphemy to not talk about the mother of all noteworthy sites in Marseille – the Notre-Dame de la Garde or Our Lady of the Guard. This Catholic basilica is the city’s best-known symbol and can be seen from anywhere in the city, built on the foundations of an ancient fort at the highest natural point in Marseille.

Chateau D'If

Another point on the axis which is worth exploring (and perhaps even reminiscing about) is Chateau D’If made so famous by Alexandre Dumas. It is the fortress (and later a prison) made famous by his novel ‘The Count of Monte Cristo’ and is just about a 20-minute boat ride from the port. Though the Count was fictional, you can see the hole through which Dumas had him escape.

However, the weather in Marseille is unpredictable and the infamous mistral winds can overturn your plans within minutes. So it is good to have a plan B, which could be to discover the oldest district of France and a historical quarter called ‘Le Panier’, which literally translates to ‘the basket’. It’s narrow, hilly lanes can best be explored on foot, which can be done in about two hours.

  

Must buy!

All these activities can be done using the Marseille City Pass! It is dedicated to individual visitors who wish to discover Marseille with an all-in package. This pass is valid for 24, 48 or 72 hours and allows access to many attractions.

Did you know?

Marseilles has a history of soap-making and the Marseille soap or ‘Savon de Marseille’ is a traditional hard soap made from olive oil that has been produced around Marseille, for about 600 years.

 

Savon de Marseille

Don’t miss

The MuCem stands out as a great museum dedicated to the Mediterranean. This cutting-edge structure with breath-taking architecture opened its doors in June 2013 while Marseille was the European Capital of Culture. Its intricate building was designed by architect Rudy Riciotti and it was the first museum entirely dedicated to Mediterranean culture.

The MuCem

Scratch that itch

Even as more and more travellers discover the magic of exploring a destination through experiences, the experiences that they seek are also undergoing an evolution of sorts. They are getting more and more local and specific – like visiting the local markets or attending a traditional wedding ceremony. Hyper-local is where tourism is heading towards.

In fact, according to TripAdvisor, taking classes and workshops is one of the fastest-growing types of local experiences globally. Learning the intricacies of the region’s textile weave or studying the local dialect/dance form affords travellers huge bragging rights!

However, one kind of experience is eclipsing all the others and it involves food! It is the mother-of-all, most primal instincts that travellers like to indulge. Whether it is culinary tours, cooking classes or street-grub tours, food inspires the traveller and the gourmand in us. What has fuelled this passion further is the social media tool – Instagram! Suddenly there is an explosion of food-based travel that highlights the specialities of that destination. Tourism boards quickly caught on to this trend and have been promoting their country’s foods and beverages like never before. Videos of food-tastings and chefs making local dishes are going viral quicker than any other activity.

All this is possible only if there is help from an ‘insider’ – a local who can help travellers explore the destination like a local and make the entire process more interactive, more educational, rather than it being just about gazing through the window of a tour bus. Technology plays its role as well. Smart phones and various travel apps help travellers scratch their itch – even while on the move. Itinerary changes, buying additional experiences, sharing videos and photos even as they are experiencing it, have all been possible with the help of technology. A common thread that binds all the above experiences though is ‘authenticity’ not just from its giver but also from its receiver in an effort to undertake unfeigned and sincere journeys.     

Is it remote enough?

Mainstream doesn’t cut it anymore. How much it costs doesn’t matter. They don’t care if everyone is doing it. All they ask is, ‘Is it unique and isolated?’

Mature travelers are not only seeking experiences, but they have already started to discriminate between experiences in favour of the ones that are off the beaten track, difficult to find, never-heard-of places and things to do. In short, something that doesn’t come in the top 10 Google search. This in turn is prompting operators to look hard for products and activities that not many in their market are offering, or even know of.

Taking a dive in El Nido, The Philippines 

An unfortunate turn this new wave is taking is that social media influencers are being trolled for showcasing ‘secret haunts’ online for fear that these dearly-loved spots of locals will see a stampede of such travelers looking for Instagram-worthy places. Fortunately, such incidents are rare and lie on one end of the spectrum. But they indicate the growing demand for places that are not crawling with tourists – a trend that is slowly being defined as luxury. 

The truth is that by and large, travelers have become explorers and discoverers. They don’t want to merely travel. Whether it is just being part of a sustainable environment or wanting to race on an F1 track onboard a cruise liner in the middle of the ocean, it is the experience that matters – not so much the cost or the destination and definitely not its popularity.

The India market is slowly moving towards this trend but there is still a large percentage of Indians who continue to enjoy their annual holiday in Thailand or Dubai. These numbers are surprisingly high. But in a way it balances the scale and allows the others to pursue their dream holidays, except that this niche of travelers doesn’t want to ‘lose themselves’ or ‘escape life’. They want to experience everything and come alive to every new moment they witness. 

Get inspired by Lisbon

The sunny capital of Portugal, Lisbon disguises itself as a quaint coastal town during the day which, by night, turns into a cosmopolitan city with mega clubs lined along the waterfront from Santos to Santa Apolónia.

 

The Pena National Palace which is a day trip away from Lisbon

Laid-back and relaxed- Lisbon is a dream come true for those who wish for a relaxed time by the beach or a slow walking tour along cobbled alleyways and ancient ruins. A mild climate with more than 3,000 hours of sunshine a year, fabulous beaches, and the trademark seven hills that surround Lisbon allow for a myriad of spots from where you could capture a scenic view of the city.

One of the world's oldest cities, Lisbon predates the likes of London, Rome and Paris by hundreds of years. Home to a culture that has brought about much archaeological advancement, the must-see historical sites of Lisbon are the Jerónimos Monastery and Belém tower, both classified as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Rebuilt after the devastating 1755 earthquake, the Lisbon Baixa attracts the most visitors because of its connection with history, and simultaneously also because of urban delights. Considered as downtown Lisbon, it was a historical square designed in a fascinating earthquake-resistant neoclassical fashion. Now lined with cafes that are perfect for quiet evening meals, Baixa is open till late at night, which is when the party-goers flock into the plazas and avenues for a night on the town.

From the winding streets, centuries-old houses and traditional shops, Lisbon is surrounded by nostalgia for its past, but the people have learnt to not dwell on it. In fact, sunny Lisbon warmly invites you to learn the art of leisure from the city and its people, to follow the relaxed cafe culture, to unwind and live life to the fullest.

Portugal was founded in 1143, making it one of the oldest nations in Europe. Portugal is named after its 2nd largest city, Porto. There are 15 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Portugal (ranking it 8th in Europe and 17th in the world); and each year more than 13 million tourists visit the country. 

With the longest bridge in Europe, Portugal is also a very popular destination from India for those looking for a Euro break and an extension to their Spain and Morocco itineraries. The total flight duration from Portugal to India is 10 hours, 42 minutes and India is 4:30 hours ahead of Portugal.

Cheery blossoms in Shandong

The ever-popular and beautiful sight of cherry trees blossoming can be experienced at Zhongshan park in Qingdao which is located in east China’s Shandong province.

Every year, from mid April to May, visitors flock to experience the stunning cherry blossom festival held in Zhongshan park. The 600m oriental cherry road, better known as the Cherry Blossom Corridor, has more than 20,000 cherry trees transplanted decades ago from Japan; which turns into a beautiful shade of pink that is postcard worthy! First celebrated in 1930s, the Cherry Blossom festival held in Zhongshan park has a history of more than 80 years. 

Another interesting way to witness these stunning cherry blossoms is from the sky through a cable car. There is also an amusement park within the vicinity, for kids to enjoy various rides and fun activities

The coffee culture in Frankfurt

There are many places in the metropolis on the River Main where one is able to take some rest while enjoying the myriad pleasures of the city’s coffee scene. 

Frankfurt’s coffeehouses are as diverse as the city itself. Here, the coffee culture is traditional, international, original and experimental! And yet, the city’s caffeine bars also have one particularly important  thing in common – their high degree of quality. 

A popular German-language culinary magazine 'Feinschmeckers' recently rated 525 of Germany’s best places to enjoy coffee and cake. Unsurprisingly, Frankfurt fared very well in this national comparison.

Wackers Café

The family business of Luise Wacker has been proffering its coffee creations for more than a century. The time-honoured establishment is also known to have been Frankfurt’s very first coffeehouse. It’s no wonder then that this small café is a true Frankfurt institution, a traditional coffee shop looking back on a long and storied past. 

What’s more, Wackers Café is famous beyond Frankfurt’s city limits. Featuring its very own roasting house, it produces more than 40 different coffee and espresso variations. The establishment also places great value on the 'fair trade' philosophy when purchasing coffee beans.

Kaffeerösterei Wissmüller

Kaffeerösterei Wissmüller is yet another time-honoured Frankfurt roasting house. Located in the heart of Leipziger Straße, a popular Frankfurt shopping street, one finds a rustic café known as Stern. It is nostalgic in its style, featuring coffee dispensers, a large set of traditional coffee scales and an old coffee grinder. Customers sit at small tables that feature old coffee sacks as tablecloths. During summer, the picturesque inner courtyard is a popular place for enjoying a freshly brewed cup of coffee.

Glückskaffee 

Surrounded by unusual coffee variations and confectioneries, guests of Glückskaffee have plenty of unique specialities to choose from. The highlights of the coffeehouse, owner-operated by Martina Rönn, are the two proprietary coffee blends the “wild coffee” and the so-called “kaffa”. This coffee variation grows outside on trees and is picked by the growers themselves. Other popular delicacies include 'bacci', an Italian-style chocolate and hazelnut kiss, almond biscuits, tartufo, and pistachio biscuits.

Naschmarkt am Dom

Nearby, at Naschmarkt am Dom, customers are given the chance to escape the hustle and bustle of the big city. On the café’s ground floor, guests sit on traditional, Viennese-style coffeehouse chairs. On the top floor, things are even cosier, with the clientele relaxing on comfortable French armchairs. The establishment’s garden exudes a Mediterranean atmosphere in the style of the Côte d’Azure. Regardless of where one sits, visitors are served only the best that Frankfurt’s coffee culture has to offer – from traditional Italian espresso to the Naschmarkt special, coffee with cream, the famous Frankfurt Crown Cake liqueur and brittle. Americano, affogato, cortado and chai latte are of course also part of the menu.

The Espresso Bar

Having entered The Espresso Bar, one immediately feels transported back in time. The interior, designed with much attention to detail, and the busy baristas make guests feel as if they’re back in the 1920s! Here, perfection and culinary pleasure are top priority, which is why the café offers only a small but very good selection of coffees. Homemade pies and pastries are also part of the assortment, including the Portuguese speciality, pastel de nata.

Aniis

Aniis, meanwhile, is a hidden gem situated in Frankfurt’s East End district, just a few short steps from the new European Central Bank building. Guests will find it to be a cosy café exuding much African flair. Whether you prefer a latte macchiato, a cappuccino or one of the many 'dripped coffee’ variations, your taste buds are guaranteed a treat. There’s also outdoor seating for al-fresco breakfasts or a homemade lunchtime snack. The Moroccan-style cuisine on offer includes plenty of vegan dishes and tries to do without meat wherever possible.

IIMORI Patisserie

IIMORI Patisserie takes French and Japanese delicacies and blends them into a delectable selection of sweet treats. Those who like unusual products will feel right at home here. The patisserie’s bakehouse is particularly well known for its exotic cakes, tarts and pies. IIMORI naturally also has a number of green tea-flavoured delicacies. There’s also an excellent selection of tea and coffee specialities. The stylish patisserie features an aesthetic blend of designer furniture.

Café im Liebieghaus

Café im Liebieghaus is an idyllic and highly cultured place where people with a penchant for art come to enjoy a brief respite. The café’s interior impresses with a cosy fireplace lounge, medieval-style arches and winged chairs set before a warm hearth. The beautiful Italian-style inner courtyard belonging to the museum café is another excellent place to spend a few quiet moments. Menu favourites include the wonderful cakes and the many quiche varieties.

Tip: Maximise your coffee experience with a slice or two of Frankfurt’s most popular confectionery, Frankfurt Crown Cake, which consists of alternating layers of biscuits rings, buttercream and redcurrant jelly. Once completed, the cake is garnished with brittle and decorated with cream roses and cocktail cherries.

Guest post: Lots of surprises in New Zealand

I had planned to spend the next day at the Bay of Islands, which is the northernmost region of New Zealand. It was a 3-hour drive from my apartment, so I started at 7am. 

With nothing but a strong coffee and music to keep me company, I enjoyed the drive to Paihia, one of the more popular towns in Bay of Islands. After grabbing a quick breakfast, I took the ferry ride along the bay. The surprise element of this ferry was that it went through one of the nearby caves, which was a unique experience. I then drove to Waitangi, which is where the Maori treaty was signed. After spending a couple of hours learning about the Maori history, I stopped at their café for lunch. 

Cape Reinga

New Zealand is famous for its green-lipped mussels, which are rarely found in other countries, and not all restaurants serve this delicacy. To my surprise, this café was serving a lot of gourmet dishes, including green-lipped mussels, at very reasonable prices. I treated myself to a portion of fresh mussels, and also had a seafood chowder. Both dishes were lip-smacking delicious!

Road trip to Bay of Islands

After a heavy lunch, I drove further north to the Cape Reinga Lighthouse. This literally is the northernmost tip of New Zealand. The view was spectacular. I stayed there till sunset, and then decided to drive back to Auckland.

I had planned to spend the next 3 days in the South Island, primarily in Queenstown and Milford Sound. I took an early flight from Auckland to Queenstown, and headed to the Adventure Queenstown Hostel. I have stayed in a lot of hostels in the last few years, but this is by far the best hostel in terms of service and facilities. 

Queenstown view

The staff was friendly, and helped me chalk out the details for my time in Queenstown. What impressed me the most about this hostel was that they had GoPro cameras that could be rented, free of cost! I took advantage of this opportunity, and borrowed their camera for all my adventures in Queenstown. 

The Ledge

The first of my adventures was at The Ledge, situated at walking distance from my hostel. I took a gondola ride to the top, and got strapped up for the Ledge Bungy and Ledge Swing. Both activities were absolutely mind-blowing. 

Most bungy locations require the harness to be strapped to one’s ankle, but the Ledge bungy provides more freedom by allowing the harness to be strapped to the waist. The view from the top was amazing, which made the experience even more memorable. Post completing both activities, I decided to try the Luge rides at the same location. Racing with the kids was definitely fun, and it instantly made me feel more energetic.

(Read the first part of this guest post by Keith here)

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Keith D'Souza is an IT professional based in Bengaluru. When he is not doing solo trips, he is undertaking Himalayan treks. He has visited 14 countries till date and intends to hit the 100 mark some day. His introduction is not complete without mentioning his undying love for food, especially local cuisines.