Friday, December 23, 2011

Food review: Café by the Beach

In a city where space is the new currency, Café by the Beach comes like a breath of fresh air. Hazel Jain comes back impressed and is tempted to give it full marks just for its décor and ambience.  


The view from Cafe by the Beach in the night
The words ‘no-alcohol’ can prove to be a depressant in any restaurant. But it is a special downer at Café by the Beach. You will know why when you see the place.
Picture this: You’re driving towards Chowpatty in the evening while negotiating heavy traffic. You reach the Mafatlal signal on the other side of the road only to realise that that U-turn won’t get you to Café by the Beach and you should have taken the next U which is on Marine Drive. So you drive through the jam again, take the turn and stop by the restaurant for valet parking. By this time, you’re pretty much frustrated and in need of a strong ‘pick-me-up’ only for you to realise that they don’t serve them.
Despite this, you don’t miss the alcohol once you’re inside. Because by the time you step into the restaurant, which is completely al fresco – with no walls, no floor, no ceiling – you can already feel the stress of the day ooze away.

DécorApart from the location and its sand-covered floor, Café by the Beachshares little resemblance with the erstwhile Salt Water Grill. It has wicker recliners and loungers on one side facing the sea, wooden tables with chairs on the other, and very pretty (and very romantic) wooden gazebos with transparent curtains flowing in the breeze.
The place is decorated with lots of potted plants, fairy lights and lanterns that come on in the evening, Oriental art pieces, and of course beautiful palm trees.

DrinksThere are plenty of non-alcoholic options here with various types of tea and coffee, milkshakes, mocktails, juices, aerated drinks, and of course coconut water. We ordered two mocktails: Cafe by the Beach Colada and Blue Lagoon.
The first one didn’t have enough coconut milk and pineapple juice so we asked the server to add some. But it came back tasting almost the same. The Blue Lagoon was too sweet with more than enough Sprite so we asked for fresh lime to cut the sweetness. It worked, but only so much.

FoodBesides its no-alcohol permit, the restaurant also cannot cook here. So the menu options are limited to salads, wraps, sandwiches, desserts and cold platters. We ordered a Grilled Chicken Club Wrap and a watermelon and feta salad.
The wrap had grilled chicken, bacon, lettuce, tomato and spicy garlic aioli. It was light and flavourful but had more chicken and less bacon. The salad was a total surprise; it was not diced as expected but in layers. Thick, square slabs of watermelon sandwiched frisee greens and feta tossed in honey mustard dressed. Traditionalists might not be happy with it but if you’re open to experimentation, you might like it. I would have been happier if the salad had more feta and dressing because all i could taste was the watermelon!
We went there on a Monday evening and at least half the tables were occupied, which for a SoBo restaurant is impressive. Unfortunately, just snacks couldn’t keep the guests till very late and in the end only two to three tables were left occupied.

ServiceThe service is prompt when you want it to be and relaxed when you want to take your time and linger. Still, it would help if once in a while they looked in your direction. When we reached there, we saw the staff decorating a double-lounger with red, heart-shaped balloons. On closer inspection, we realized that the lounger also had a card in white envelope – obviously a request made by a guest in advance.
It was touching to see the staff running around, trying to keep the balloons in place because of the breeze. Sure enough, a young (but strangely disinterested) couple walked in and headed towards the lounger.
Having said all that, the restaurant gets a thumbs-up despite its no-alcohol routine. It’s a perfect spot to relax with a book or a friend, or even to spend an evening romancing your lover. We wonder what the management will do for the rains and the sweltering summers though.
Timing: 11am to 1am (Daily)
Average meal for two: Rs 1,300 (without dessert)

This article appears on KnowYourCity also.